Translated by Tim Trant, December 1995.
Distributed by Mike Siggins from The Sumo Rules Bank
[Translator's additions (details which don't seem to be explicitly covered in the German rules) appear in square brackes like these.]
This game allows all motor sport and game enthusiasts to simulate races on the Hockenheimring in a dramatic and enjoyable fashion. The game markers are accurate miniatures of the racing cars. Both the short ("crosswise buckle") and the GP tracks agree in outline and feel with the actual layouts. Not luck, but rather skill, quickness and tactics determine your success in the game!
The game contains:
The mechanics of moving, such as Braking, Accelerating and Changing Gears, come both from the arrangement of the dice (as thown or the switched numbers) and the sometimes necessary "hard braking". The racing line on the track can be recognized immediately via the longer game spaces, which, as in the real races, allow the best and fastest move. The curves are bounded by the red and white markings, and the numbers printed beside each one specify the movement limit for that particular corner. It is important for each racer to switch into the right gear at the optimal moment, and to know when to take the lead and the same applies in this game. Driving errors are never without consequences! They sometimes force a pit stop, or at worst lead to a retirement, that one could have avoided with skill and caution.
Up to 3 dice, and at least 1 red die, are used to move a car on its game turn. With each die the driver can accelerate or brake, in that the number either on the top or on the bottom of the die may be chosen and displayed in the Move Indicator. The side with the higher number speeds up the car, just as the lower number slows it down. This is how the game simulates the choice of the proper gear!
|roll result:||3 can be inverted to 4|
|2 can be inverted to 5|
|1 can be inverted to 6|
For braking, the dice are rotated in the opposite way.
The same inverting process may be followed for the red die, except that this die is only marked with 1-3 points, each appearing twice.
The players should learn by heart the numbers on the white dice. The numbers on the top and bottom sides of a white die always sum to 7; there is no need for the annoying peek underneath. The underside of the red die should be checked, though, since either of the other two possible numbers may be on the bottom. The red dice is particularly useful in tight curves, because the numbers 1-3 (2 x) may always be turned into 1 or 2 for braking.
There are four Move Indicators on the game board. [After a player rolls the dice for his move on his turn, he places the rolled (and possibly rotated) dice in the boxes of a Move Indicator.] The numbers 1-3 indicate the order in which the particular die will be used for a move (see also "Turn Sequence").
To get onto the racing line or to pass other vehicles, a car must be able to change lanes. One or more diagonal lane changing move(s) may only be made when using a die showing a "diagonal" dot pattern, i.e. a 2, 3 or 5. The 1, 4, and 6 die results allow only movement in the same lane (straight ahead).
Beside the red & white markings which indicate the curves and chicanes are the corner limit numbers, which indicate the maximum move possible in each particular corner. A die with a larger number [earlier in the sequence in the Move Indicator] must be used up before the start of the markings and may not be used within the corner. Untimely die rolls, which even after braking/down shifting exceed the limit number for the curve, are extra points and are assessed as Driving Errors (see "Driving Errors"). Extra attention is necessary in the "2" rated sections. After the end of the markings the car can accelerate again, as long as it is not within the markings, continuing without regard for that "red & white" limit with the next number in the Move Indicator.
The dark grey racing line spaces (some double size) always count as 1 space. If there is a dot in the middle of the space, a second (drafting) car may also follow the line and move into that single space. Such a car moves [next game turn] after the one in front has moved. The leading racer always moves first! (see "Turn Sequence") [The shaded racing line space at the exit of the last corner has no dot in it (or else the dot would be obscured by the starting grid marker), but it is still considered to be a single space and can hold two cars.]
A car's penalty flags may be removed by driving into its pit. The pit lane may only be driven along slowly, i.e. with all dice turned to their lowest [of the possible two] sides. The speed limit applies from the entrance space to the exit space of the pit lane, at which point the car may start to accelerate again. [Each die which is used for movement when the car is back on the main track may be rotated as desired.] The exit from the pit must also be made with the "slow" sides of the dice. A pit stop must be made as a result of some Driving Errors. When he exits his pit, the driver removes his penalty flags from his pit and gives them back again. An additional pit stop (e.g. tire changes or refuelling) for all players may also be agreed upon before the start of the game. The pits may be labelled with the names of the starting drivers with washable felt marker [!!].
Moves are always made in the order which corresponds to the standing in the race. If two racers are tied for position, the first to move is the one which was first to reach its current position. The second to arrive is distinguished by being moved back in its space by a nose length. After rolling the dice a player decides on the speeds and the sequence of his move and puts his dice in one of the Move Indicators for all to see. For the results of the move: "It is [first] placed and then [must be] driven". Once the dice are placed in the Move Indicator fields they may not be replaced or adjusted. If completely obstructed by other cars, a driver must unfortunately forfeit his move.
When moving through a hazardous corner, or if two preceeding racers have blocked the track and too few free spaces for a 3 dice move are available, one may put aside one or both white dice as long as this is announced previously. The move is then made with the one or two remaining dice. The red die alone is the least risky, as it has a maximum result of 3 and yet can be changed into a 2 or 1 by braking. Hard braking is advised in the 2 rated chicanes, because a 2 is the maximum allowed move within these corners. It is always possible to stay within this limit with the red die. One who drives too quickly here will land in the gravel trap. Note: The number of dice must always be specified before the roll! The red die must always be used!
Excess movement points correspond to penalty points, such as e.g. excess speed in the curves or rear ending another car in front. This can cost time and race standing, cause a pit stop, or even lead to retirement from the race. The number of penalty points is the number of points on the die (or dice) not used up by movement.
1 yellow flag + remain in this space until next move; the vehicle stays in the space where the error happened [i.e. the first space which it moved into using a too big die result] and all remaining points are lost.
1 red flag + miss next move; the vehicle is much too fast and flies off the track. The car ends up outside the track in the gravel beside the next space, into which it will re enter the race after its lost move. If this space is occupied, it restarts in the next [previous?] vacant field. The remaining points are lost.
(possible if the driver miscalculates the move from
the first die)
car crashes into the barriers and retires.]
When a Driving Error happens, a corresponding flag is immediately placed beside the car. On the next game turn the affected player puts the flag in his pit space.
(see page 5 of the German rules for diagrams)
Roll R1 4 3; "brake" to R1 (1st) 3 ( ) 3 ( ).
Car #1: #1 is approaching the risky 2 rated curve. Under the red 1 is unfortunately only a 3, and the 4 only "brakes" to a 3. With the 1 the only possible move is to drive into the first half of the inside of the curve. Two 3's, though, are too fast and consequently not usable. After the move there is still a 6 point excess, and the car flies from the second space on the inside of the curve diagonally to a spot in the gravel beside the space on the outside of the curve.
Roll 6 6 R3; "brake" to 1 (2nd) 6 (3rd) R2 (1st).
Car #2: No error. #2 has a good throw with several options. It's good that the red 3 can be "braked" to 2, and so the racing line of the curve [actually, the approach space and the first half of the inside lane of the curve] can be followed. With the 1 from a "braked" 6 the second half of the inner curve can be completed, and the second 6 can be fully used to accelerate on the following straight.
Roll 3 3 R3; "brake" to R1 (2nd) 3 (1st) 3 (3rd).
Car #3: Also taking a big risk! The car changes lanes with the first 3 onto the inside and then moves up to the curve, with the 1 he moves through the first half, and is 3 points over in the second half of the curve.
No other car is damaged if a car spins out because of excess movement points [and a blocked track]. For the offender the same rules are [generally] applied as for curves, but after a Big Mistake, instead of the diagonal spin out move, the ambulance pulls up beside the next space on the edge of the track [and the car retires from the race].
The yellow flag (Small Mistake): three yellow, or a yellow plus a red => black flag = pit stop required. Red flag (Big Mistake): two red, or a red plus a yellow => black flag = pit stop required. The flags are always stood up in the respective pit for all to see. The black flag always signifies that a pit stop is required at the end of the current lap. Be careful! If a driver with a black flag gets another (yellow or red) flag while on his way to the pits, the result is the retirement of the vehicle and driver from the race! The blue flags are used to mark any lapped cars[!!]. The white flags are used to indicate time penalties.
Racing demands fast reactions and quick action. Before the start of the game, the maximum time for a player's move (between 10 and 60 seconds) should be agreed upon. If a move is not completed by the expiration of the allowed time, the driver receives a white flag (time penalty), which is placed on his pit. If three white flags are collected, the driver must serve a "stop and go penalty" by stopping at his pit. The slow move is still completed, and any moving penalties are still applied. The time expended can be tracked with a normal stopwatch. A proper race clock will soon be available as an accessory to this game.
To establish an equitable starting grid, each driver separately drives a practice lap which determines the starting order. Whoever completes the practice lap with the fewest dice starts at the front. If there is a tie in the number of dice used, whichever moved farthest over the finish line on its last move starts in front. Alternatively, limit the time allowed for the practice lap, and start in order of distance completed during the practice. For flags gained in the practice lap: Small Mistake => one move is lost; Large Mistake => two moves lost.
1 3 5 2 4 (6)
The time limit per move is more interesting after some practice with the game. As the players get faster, more laps can be completed. The lap count of the original events would exceed the time frame of this game. It is advisable to complete about 10% of the number of real life laps (e.g. 45 laps in Hochenheim = 5 laps in the game) This lap total, with 6 experienced players, requires a time of about 2 "frenzied" hours. Beginners should start with 3 laps, in order to stay within the same time limits. With only 2 or 3 players, each player can assume a complete team with 2 vehicles and then drive both in the races. The team variation is also very interesting in the interplay with other players. A player can use a race sheet to record the practice times & placing, as well as the standings after each lap. Individual duels for position are often as dramatic as the fight for pole position, especially if private championships to accompany the "main event" are staged. In the Motorsport Game you and your friends can also drive individual races with your racecars, or even use models of your personal cars (standard 1:87 scale) on the Hockenheimring. You can however also follow the championships of different Motersport classes with this game, and obtain results in your group different from those prevailing throughout the racing season.
The Hockenheimring is the first speedway that you can obtain in the series from pms games. More racetracks will appear in the next year, in parallel with the racing season. So next year you could drive, for example, the Nürburgring and the Noris ring. You will be able to acquire the racetracks as accessories separately, without having to buy the entire game. More models of the DTM cars can be obtained from the Herpa miniature models company in standard 1:87 scale, through model or game shops. The models are duplicates of the originals to the smallest detail. The 1995 DTM cars are offered in the enclosed brochure. Naturally a 1996 edition will be produced, so that your speedway will always be current.
professional motor sport games
Tel. 06127 968112
[Tim: This is my fairly literal translation of the rules for the "DTM in a tube" game. Since I've been playing strictly on the basis of what I could figure out from the rulebook, rather than from personal instruction, I'm curious about just what different rules interpretations are out there. For instance, I've heard of considerably different methods of handling movement in pit lane, but the written German rules seem pretty clear about that. I don't really consider these rules to be "finished" because of the omission of some points (e.g. how does a "stop & go" differ from any other stop, and does the finish line extend across pit lane?), but this is all that I could extract from the rulebook.]
The Game Cabinet - email@example.com - Ken Tidwell