This translation, John Webley

Game length c. 20 minutes.

Experience the fascination of fencing. Tactics, skill and a bit of luck prove which fencer is the better. Test yourself in the basic game, or as a master in the advanced game.

Recommended by the German Fencing Association.

- 1 Game board, (Piste)
- 2 Swordsman Figures
- 25 Fencing Cards ( five of each value from 1 to 5)
- 2 Marker Stones.
- 1 Set of Rules

Players play alternately. the player whose turn it is to play, chooses one of his cards and then moves his Swordsman the exact number of spaces on the board as shown on the card (Diagram 1). The player can decide whether to move forwards or backwards. The swordsman may not move off the board, nor may he move onto or over the space occupied by the other swordsman. At the end of his turn the player takes a replacement card or cards from the pack until he once again has five cards in his hand, then his opponent takes his turn in the same way. Cards played are put face down in a pile so that only the last card played is visible. Players may not search through this pile to see what cards have been played earlier.

If a round ends without a player winning it outright, it is won by the player whose figure has moved furthest down the board, if both figures have moved the same distance then the round is drawn.

The player who wins the round moves his marker stone on the hit marker one space forwards. Once this marker reaches 5 that player has won.

As in the basic game, a player attacks by playing a card which would allow his figure to move exactly onto the space occupied by his opponent. The attacker may now play more cards of the same value to strengthen his attack (Diagram 3). Only when he has laid as many cards as he wishes may he replenish his hand from the pack. The opponent now has the opportunity to "parry". To do this he must play the same number of cards as his opponent and with them reach the same value as the attacker's cards. For example, if an attacker had laid a "3" card as an attack, and then a further "3" card as a strengthener, then his opponent could parry by laying a "2" card and a "4" card, using the same number of cards, 2, to make the same value of 6, or he could parry with a "1" and a "5" or two "3"s. If the defender is unable to parry then the attacker scores a hit and the round is over.

If the parry is successful, the defender must then take his own turn before he can replenish his hand from the pack. This may mean that he plays a card and moves as normal, (Diagram 4), or alternatively he may be able to counterattack (Riposte), by playing a card which enables him to move exactly onto the space occupied by his opponent. Only when the defender has taken his own turn may he take more cards to make his hand back up to 5 cards.

If the cards are all drawn without either player winning the round, then the players may turn over their remaining cards. They then see whether either, or both still have any cards which would allow an attack, i.e. cards of the same value as the gap between the two figures. If one player has more of such cards than the other, he wins the round. Only if this fails to produce a result is the distance traveled down the board relevant.

- A move forwards
- A move backwards
- An attack

Players who wish to complicate things still further may try introducing a fourth possibility, an advance and attack, which greatly increases the power of the swordsmen.

Translated by John Webley

Distributed by Mike Siggins from The Sumo Rules Bank